"Abandoned papal retreat eagerly awaits Pope Leo after Francis’s departure"

When Pope Francis, shortly after his election in 2013, chose not to spend his summer break in Castel Gandolfo—a quiet hillside town overlooking a lake near Rome—locals were surprised. The decision broke with a long-standing tradition of popes retreating there.

One resident, Anna, likened the feeling to a separation, while another said it slightly weakened their sense of connection.

Now, after 12 summers without a visiting pontiff, the town’s spirit has been lifted by Pope Leo, who was elected in early May following the passing of Francis. Leo has decided to return to Castel Gandolfo as the preferred papal summer destination.

He will arrive on Sunday for a two-week stay and return in mid-August for additional rest.

“Saying we’re happy doesn’t quite capture it,” Anna remarked. “His presence brings more than just activity—the identity of this place is tied to the papacy.”

The Vatican’s link to Castel Gandolfo dates back to 1596 when it acquired a castle in the town center from a noble Roman family. Thirty years later, Pope Urban VIII, seeking relief from Rome’s summer heat, renovated it into the official papal summer residence.

The tradition continued almost unbroken until Francis, who often avoided ceremonial customs. He visited the town only three times early in his papacy—twice for mass and once to meet his predecessor, Benedict.

Francis preferred spending summers in his simple Vatican quarters. However, his decision to open the papal palace as a museum in 2015 shifted Castel Gandolfo from a pilgrimage site to a tourist attraction. Visitors can now explore Renaissance-era gardens, grand halls displaying papal attire from the 16th century, and enjoy views of Lake Albano from the pope’s former bedroom.

“We did feel neglected when Francis stayed away, and the first few years were challenging,” said Maurizio Carosi, who runs a café and shop near the palace. “But the town has evolved from a pilgrimage stop to a tourist hub—so even if he didn’t visit, he left a lasting mark.”

The palace will remain open to the public while Leo and his Swiss Guard stay in a refurbished building within the estate.

Preparations for the American pope’s arrival are in full swing. Workers are putting the final touches on his residence, gardeners are tidying the lawns, and the tennis court is being readied for Leo, a known enthusiast of the sport.

Like his predecessors, Leo’s break won’t be solely for rest. He is expected to meet with locals, lead prayers, and continue Vatican duties remotely.

“Even on holiday, the work continues,” one official noted.