Australia's top athletes are set to showcase their talents in Paris over the coming weeks, leaving a fleeting yet impactful impression on the French capital. However, it is the numerous Australians residing within the city who have established an enduring legacy.
Fox McInerney, proprietor of Good News coffee shop and roastery Cayo, observes that Australian café culture has firmly taken root in Paris over the past decade, with more than 10 Australian-run businesses now offering a distinct alternative to France's prevalent bistros.
McInerney criticizes traditional French coffee establishments, stating their offerings have become ingrained as the standard despite being subpar compared to what Australians consider good coffee quality. Yet, he notes that attitudes are gradually shifting in Paris.
Having arrived from Melbourne at 45 years old, McInerney initially worked in bike tourism and graphic design before a former partner persuaded him to open a café due to dissatisfaction with local coffee quality. His six-year venture has since grown into roasting operations for businesses like Coutume, The Hardware Societe, Lomi, and O Coffee.
Parisians have occasionally struggled accepting Australian influence on their taste buds, often reacting strongly to the higher prices at these establishments compared to local coffee shops. "They're sometimes a bit shocked by that here," McInerney remarks. "But you just have to respect different expectations."
Australian-style party bars such as Café Oz – which emerged in 1992 and has since diversified the Paris nightlife scene – also contribute to this cultural shift. James McEwan-Hall, director of development at Café Oz, highlights that their English-style approach contrasts with traditional French service styles.
In France's high culinary circles, many Australians have made a mark as well. Hanz Gueco has gained acclaim for his Chinese-French fusion restaurant Le Cheval D’Or while James Henry and Shaun Kelly established Le Doyenné as an international destination outside Paris. Jana Lai, an Australian pastry chef who has lived in France for nine years, is the first female to join the French team at World Pastry Cup, aiming to compete in Meilleur Ouvrier de France – a competition that gained fame from the 2e film Kings of Pastry.
Lai acknowledges the traditionally male-dominated industry but has found it welcoming and appreciates its impact on future generations, particularly women. McInerney attributes his success in Paris to the general goodwill shown by French residents towards Australians – a sentiment that continues to shape their interactions with visitors from Down Under.
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