A British Michelin‑starred chef says he is opening restaurants abroad to help subsidise his UK venues amid high taxes and a troubled hospitality sector.
Jason Atherton is currently in Forte dei Marmi on the Tuscan coast, where he is readying his newest venture, Maria’s, located in the Principessa hotel. The Sheffield‑born chef now operates eateries worldwide, with outlets in Dubai and St Moritz among others.
He noted that turning a profit is simpler in nations with more lenient policies for restaurants, pubs and bars. “I am sustaining our business by opening overseas. We are launching one new venue in the UK, but we proceed cautiously – we are certainly not as aggressive as we were five or six years ago,” Atherton remarked from the kitchen at Maria’s.
The 54‑year‑old believes “restaurants will not survive” if steep taxes persist. “Without a global brand we would struggle because the UK market is demanding,” he said. “Some of our sites are losing money. We are not seeking handouts; we merely want a fair opportunity to remain viable.”
Operators report difficulties under harsh economic conditions. Business rates rose this year after Covid‑era reliefs lapsed. UKHospitality estimates the change will add roughly £32 k in tax to the average restaurant business. Furthermore, VAT – a consumption tax applied to most goods and services – stands at 20 % for UK restaurants, the highest rate in Europe. In Italy the equivalent tax on food served in restaurants is set at 10 %. The UK government has also raised employer national‑insurance contributions for lower‑paid staff, increasing the tax burden per hire. “All I know is that hospitality taxation in the UK tops Europe. Ireland’s VAT is 9 % while ours is 20 %; hospitality in Ireland is flourishing,” Atherton added.
Kate Nicholls, chair of UKHospitality, argues that running a restaurant in the UK is tougher than in continental Europe. “The UK carries one of the highest VAT rates for hospitality in Europe, placing our establishments at a clear disadvantage versus rivals across the channel.”
Atherton has collected five Michelin stars over his career. His Mayfair venue, Row on 5, earned a star seven weeks after opening and received a second star the following year. He began his career alongside Gordon Ramsay, helping launch the Maze restaurant before striking out independently with places such as Pollen Street Social and Berners Tavern.
He is enjoying his time in Italy, collaborating with executive chef Giorgio Cicero. “This feels personal – we have been visiting as a family for twelve years. I am having fun discovering Italian cuisine,” Atherton said.
When asked whether he feels uneasy about a Brit serving pasta to Italians, he replied, “I am a chef‑restaurateur who has been through the chopping block many times. Giorgio, who has worked with me for eight years…”.
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